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1: Present times.
People: challenging
the elements of nature.
When I look at the textile outdoor industry at the start
of 21st century I see lot of remarkable achievements.
Leaps in developments of synthetic fibres in last decades
gave a lot both to the end user and manufacturer. Users
of garments gained enhanced comfort, possibility to
carry less weight and enjoy more being outside while
staying much more protected from the harsh sides of
nature. User can stay dry, shielded from cold winds
and piercing raindrops. User can also stay better protected
from fire or can even stay alive after being hit by
a speeding bullet. Fabrics are more abrasive resistant,
stain repellent. List of all we gain seems to be endless.
Garment outdoor industry is tempting end-user with attractive
products. It has surely allowed outdoor going people
to challenge the elements: air, water, earth and fire
(mind you that last mentioned element has still got
it’s way).
Is climber or caver or any other textile rope user tempted
is similar way? I believe answer is: Very much so! Natural
organic fibres have been abruptly pushed out of all
outdoor rope and cord making areas by man-made organic
fibres. Future has become bright for rope user. New
era of multifilament synthetic polymers made it’s
natural predecessors, like hemp and sisal, stay forgotten
probably forever. Modern rope and cord designer has
a lot to choose from. Fibre tenacities are more than
sufficiently covering safety requirements on final products.
There are fibres with high modulus and low stretch,
fibres with built-in elasticity, modulated shrinkage,
fibres that are fire resistant and spin finished in
order achieve variety of properties. Festival of fibre
treats is not finished yet. Molecules are getting parallel!
Engineers of leading fibre manufacturers worked hard
on enhanced physical properties. Parallel molecular
orientation and high crystalinity have opened new horizons
for man-made fibres. Amount of weight saved by using
such a rope, cord or webbing is remarkable.
Does above said make you think that it is then up to
rope manufacturer to pick up almighty fibres and “only”
spin them, twist them, plait them, braid them, and that
is it? You would be very much wrong.
Nature (and customers):
challenging textile engineering.
For whom and what are we designing anyway? As we all
know, with climbing and caving ropes we have to look
out for a various items of interest. When gravity starts
to remind us about its everlasting presence modern designer
prepares a rope according to the cushioning low-impact-force
recipe. High number of falls helps to use the rope longer.
Cavers and workers want to be comforted by high strength-in-the-knot
and want no dangling on the rope while jumaring. They
also want their rope to weigh as less as possible. Also
it does not help if static rope after being pulled out
of cave is as stiff as steel wire cable. Shielding rope
sheaths are here in order to keep tiny particles of
minerals out of load bearing core. Ropes should be tough
to stand dragging on the face or through groves and
holes in rock and yet they must be soft to handle. Rope
designer is then left in his laboratory with rather
complex task. He or she has to blend all this into all-doing
all-solving rope. And customers are so demanding that
their requirements are sometimes contradicting each
other.
Past and present
of rope design.
Some of today’s ropes (climbing and static) of
few major manufacturers are remarkably tuned pieces
of fine textile engineering and I guess also of good
internal continuous quality. These ropes are doing all
they should. They absorb energy, can stand tremendous
loads even in the knot, weight less and less, are nice
to handle and pleasant to look at (at least the climbing
ones); repel water, grit and dirt. I will not name and
introduce all the fine features climbing ropes have
to offer, because this presentation is heading somewhere
else.
Chapter 2. Future: bright or
otherwise?
Textile facts
of today.
As the rope designer and a person engaged in outdoor
activities I have been, for quite a while, thinking
about following.
What is the sense of all my designing, what is the mission
of ropes and cords leaving our braiding machines daily
in thousands of meters? Is it “only” serving
best our customer? Doing it better than competitor?
Knowing exactly what we export to the whole world, we
know almost nothing about what happens with these ropes
after they are condemned to retirement. Is there a list
of what we loose?
Mostly used material in outdoor rope production is PA6.
Let us concentrate on this one then. Even though it’s
pricey comparing to other polymers, polyamide’s
physical-mechanical features are worth this extra expense.
For getting scale of volume of consumption, allow few
numbers:
These days 13% of world wide consumed man-made fibres
are polyamide (including textile and industrial fibre).
Estimated capacity of PA6 is at 5,1mio tons (fibre output
source: Saurer Group annual market report). The fact
is also that only in the USA annually almost 0,5mio
tons of polyamide carpet waste goes into landfill sites.
How big is the outdoor rope industry then? Allow please
some margin of error; it could be around 2000 tons annually.
I am not a marketing expert but this rough estimate
will do. Textile fabric industry, carpet industry, tire
cord production and others dwarf the portion of outdoor
rope making. I admit. But even knowing these numbers
still I feel responsibility for what we produce.
Chapter 3. Wolf 351: technologies
with mission.
Wolf is independent creature, sleek in
shape, devoted to go a long way in order to reach it’
s goal. Within wolf’s organism not a joule of
energy gets wasted. All is thoughtfully used with one
thing on mind. For better tomorrow I have to think what
I do today.
Wolf 351 is an organization, which has one thing on
mind, and that is to gather manufacturers of outdoor
products (yes, not only ropes), who are interested in
following Principles:
- Recyclable raw material recourses.
- Renewable material or spare part recourses.
- Reusable or recycled packaging material.
- Educational activities aimed at end user to really
help in “production-distributor-end user”
product cycle.
- Sophisticated technologies for gaining maximum performance
from minimum material used.
- Sophisticated chemicals for biodegradability.
- Manufacturer’s involvement in local environmental
issues.
- Manufacturer’s involvement in keeping the climbing
or caving environment in tact.
Wolf 351 is not only marketing project of one company
to get attention of the general public. Within this
organization we are interested in projects that have
clear benefit. Benefit displaying real savings and true
results that at the end will help to lift off the heavy
lid of pollution from our living environment. I hope
that idea behind all this will be attractive enough
for some manufacturers to forget for a while that it
is all about competition. World of technology is moving
fast. Conservative ways should give way to new, bright
and smart solutions. Some projects demand top secrecy
behind closed doors. But some projects need joint forces
of more companies in order to achieve the goal, like
for example latest steps in recycling PA6 multifilament
yarn. If carpet industry can use benefits of ever-evolving
textile technology and can make new carpet from old
one, we, in outdoor industry, also have to do something.
How does Wolf 351 work? Truly each manufacturer is invited
to apply for the membership in this organization by
introducing a particular project, which complies with
before mentioned Principles. All existing members of
Wolf 351 will evaluate each project and the project
will be either accepted or rejected. Accepted project
automatically gives to the applicant a status of the
Member. After that new Member is entitle to list this
project under Wolf 351 for next years and also can use
a logo of Wolf 351 on their products. I will not be
too specific over all details in this short presentation.
Anyone, who would be interested to join, can get full
update on these subjects presented on Wolf 351 web site.
Web page www.wolf351.org is the main window to the activities
and results of work of Wolf 351; it is easy to access
for everyone and easy and flexible to update. There
is and will be no information passed over to manufacturer
or end user otherwise than through this web site.
Now, let me guide you through architecture of the web
site. (Power Point x 8)
Updates are accessible within days after decision was
made, anyone can see details of every project, date
of start, basics of this project and its benefits. Membership
fee is EUR 30 annually and is here only to cover costs
of creating and updating the web page.
This project will certainly get attention of general
public (meaning people who buy our products), because
not everyday are competing companies working on something
together. And attention of these people out there is
what Wolf 351 needs. Because, it must be said, that
both sides in manufacturer/end user cycle must bear
share of responsibility and costs in environmentally
friendly behaviour. Ecology costs money and effort.
Anyone who wants to get more information on membership
or even to go straight and apply for membership with
existing project can speak with me here at this conference
or can visit our web site and simply fill in the application
form.
What does the manufacturer gain by joining the Wolf
351 organisation?
Benefits:
- Much higher transparency of involvement in environmental
issues.
- Possibilities of help with sometimes-straightforward
unseen solutions or help with complicated issues.
- Being part of larger projects where voice of one is
too weak, but joint force of more companies is useful
tool in negotiation.
Chapter 4. First steps in Wolf’s
footprints.
Step 1.
This information is very fresh, but real. Latest negotiations
are showing that there is the way of recycling our multifilament
fiber (of which our braided ropes are made of). That
means that used ropes will not have to end up in the
landfill site or be burned in the furnace. I can just
name some project we are currently working on.
- Processing of production-waste multifilament PA6 fibre
(ropes, cords, webbings).
- Processing of multifilament PA6 fibre from used products
(ropes, cords, webbings) and making secondary products
from it.
- Future prospects of recycling of multifilament PA6
fibre (making new from old).
Step 2.
Let me introduce one and first project, which is the
application of Singing Rock to Wolf351.
Project is presenting braiding technology with trademark
Route 44. This project has two major benefits. One is
improved quality of the product and second is raw material
reduction.
Route 44 technology applies both for braiding of dynamic
ropes and static ropes. Let me start with first mentioned
group of ropes.
Great benefits of this technology for dynamic ropes
are only for the group of single ropes 10,5mm (and about).
Sheath of the typical rope today in the category of
single ropes 10,5mm consists of 48 yarns. Braiding design
is occupation in pairs. With very high demand on performance
of the sheath, 48-yarn sheath construction was and still
is mostly used construction of 10,5 single rope.
Note: to describe the technology I am using fiber density
units (dtex), but numbers are not real, only to give
a example of scale and percentage of reduction).
If designer wants to make more competitive rope these
days, uses lighter sheath and maybe lighter core. Lighter
sheath means, that instead of using let’s say
100 dtex per each carrier (48 x 100 dtex = 4800 dtex),
manufacturer will use 88 dtex per each carrier (48 x
88 dtex = 4224 dtex). Using non-conventional number
of yarns in sheath (44) gives much more versatility
in finding just right mechanical construction of sheath
for 10,5mm rope. Designer has an option to create durable
sheath with yarn count (let’s use above example)
100 dtex per each carrier (44 x 100 dtex = 4400 dtex)
or can go for light sporty version 88 dtex per carrier
(44 x 88 dtex = 3872 dtex). In both cases there is sheath
material reduction by 8,3%. Of course, in order to fulfill
most critical parameter (= desired number of falls)
on this new 44-carrier sheath rope, there must be very
fine braiding process involved as well as advanced fiber
treatment procedures. Results are rather satisfactory:
with this new unconventional method of braiding single
climbing ropes manufacturer can get well handling and
compact rope with sheath material reduction of about
8%.
Latest tests in CE and UIAA approved laboratory with
Singing Rock 10,5mm single dynamic rope show that it
is fairly within capabilities of this technology to
manufacture 8 to 11 falls (EN 892) rope.
Only hypothetically, if there was sold annually 4 million
meters of 10,5mm single climbing ropes made with 44-carrier
sheath instead of conventional 48-carrier sheath, sheath
raw material savings would level 10 tons (annually).
As was mentioned before, Route 44 braiding
technology applies also for static ropes. As with dynamic
ropes, also with static ropes this technology is suitable
only for 10,5mm (EN 1891 Type A) ropes. Here, the technical
story is little bit different. Gain in performance is
clear and material saving is not so straightforward
as with dynamic ropes. But hear the evidence first.
As we know, one of few aspects defying the static ropes
construction is the sheath-core ratio. With static rope
10,5mm Type A; sheath percentage must be above minimum
34,47% of rope weight, so that rope will be durable
enough. With this limitation on mind, 44 yarns in the
sheath create mechanically suitable construction, which
complies fully with EN 1891 and as the result has extremely
high safety ratio for PA6 kernmantel rope. 35,6kN in
straight pull; 22,4kN in figure 8 knot; great knot tying
and untying characteristics. Still it weighs only 72
g/m. The benefit here is that for some applications
where 11mm 78g/m (over 35kN strength, over 22kN in the
knot) rope was needed, customer can use 72g/m 10,5mm
rope, saving minimum 6g of quality industrial polyamide
per each meter of the rope.
And, forgive me; again only hypothetically, if there
was sold annually 1,5 million meters of 10,5mm Type
A ropes made with 44-carrier sheath instead of conventional
11mm Type A ropes, raw material savings would level
again 10 tons (annually).
Singing Rock is now pioneering this braiding
technology and so far theory has lead to clear results.
I have to say that this 44-carrier technology has evolved
and adapted around ever increasing properties of today’s
industrial fibers. I think that as the performance of
synthetic fibers is improved, also construction of ropes
can (and should) shift to more technically advanced
state.
Let me give you some examples how the performance of
synthetic fibers elevated to new levels and thus allowed
the use of unconventional braiding technology, ending
in material reduction.
In years 1955-1960, tenacity was at 55-60 cN/tex (standard
level), which was much higher than the previous natural
yarns used for ropes. Around 1965 tenacity moved to
70-75 cN/tex due to improvements in polymer processing.
After that: 1970-1975, tenacity at 80 cN/tex. Increase
to this level could be achieved mainly with the introduction
of spin-draw technology (at 1-step). From 1985 we are
having high-level tenacities at 83-84 cN/tex. Further
improvements are discussed from 1995 and maybe there
are possibilities to have tenacity at 85-90 cN/tex with
PA6 (partly introduced already, but only with PA6.6).
Chapter 5. Closing the story.
We owe something to this planet. In mountaineering
and spelaeology we are getting close to, or even under
the skin, of nature. Let us make sure that we are not
carrying poison on our bodies. I feel we are at the
crossroads of outdoor gear-making technology. New advanced
technologies are coming or will come soon. Let us develop
new materials and constructions, let us reduce material
consumption and use degradable chemicals. Let us produce
disposable or reusable products and if we do so, let
us make sure that these products are really recycled
or disposed of properly. Let us give information to
the end users, that they are as responsible as manufacturers
for discarding of the product in a way harmless to our
environment. I hope that some manufacturers will join
Wolf 351’s activities and will contribute with
work and results, in order to make the whole issue transparent
to everyone involved in exploring of our Nature. Thank
you for your kind attention.
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